The room has a heavy almost oppressive smell of body odor, mildew and stray dog. Everyone looks up at us as we enter. I cup my palms to my face, bow slightly and say, "Sawat-dee-kop." The young men cup their palms and return the hello. They are curious; a few seem mildly suspicious- very few if any westerners visit here. Everyone is very polite. Thai people are very gentle and very polite.

In the rear of the room a middle aged monk sits cross-legged near the large central alter display, dressed in a bright saffron orange robe. He is working on the center of a young man’s back, gently pushing at a charcoal transfer of a charm design with his long needle stick.