A few dozen, younger and middle-aged men are sitting on the porch and steps in the shade; talking quietly, waiting turn to be tattooed.

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Several have necklaces of dangling charms that are contained in small plastic coverings. It is hot out- South East Asian sticky-hot, that makes your clothes feel like clinging damp dishrags. We remove our shoes and walk up the short rise of stairs onto the veranda. One monk is out on the porch surrounded by 4 or five youths that are stretching the skin of a friend’s back.